5 Style Rules You Must Know

dA lot of good things come in fives - our five senses, the five o'clock shadow, the five second rule, the Fantastic Five... (or was it four?)

Either way, I present to you the 5 Style Rules You [Absolutely] Must Know (and Obey):

1. Leather
Leather is an amazing fabric and I think brown leather should be utilized much more by the everyday man. Black leather is fine and all, but to add a touch of class and elegance to an otherwise boring black leather ensemble, give black patent leather (characterized by its shiny surfaces) a go, especially if you're attending a black-tie function.

Black patent leather - we like.

That aside, the basic rule around leather is to not mix your leathers - if your outfit includes a leather belt and leather shoes, do not attempt to combine a brown leather belt with black leather shoes, for instance. Instead, keep the leathers consistent. Match a brown leather belt with some nice brown leather loafers, and a nice watch with a brown leather strap for good measure.

Brown leather and black leather are like cats and dogs - the laws of nature dictate that they just shouldn't mix, but you still see it happening anyway.

2. The great mystery of the suit jacket buttons.

Not all suit jackets are created equal - some have three buttons and some have two. Basic laws of etiquette recommend that you button up your suit jacket when you're standing and leave the jacket unbuttoned when you're seated. But which buttons to button?

The general rule around suit jacket buttons is as follows:

Top button of a 3 button jacket - Sometimes

Middle button of a 3 button jacket/Top button of a 2 button jacket - Always

Bottom button of any jacket - Never

You don't want that $500 jacket of yours looking like a straitjacket do you?


Do this.

Not this.

3. Pleats.

Possibly the greatest fashion mis-invention of all time. I am oblivious as to why they were created or why some clothing brands still incorporate pleats in their trouser lines - they look good on nobody, flatter nobody and should be worn by nobody.

Although pleated trousers may arguably amplify one's 'freedom of movement', would you really want to trade in looking like you have an extra sumthin' sumthin' in your pants (could be a good thing for some of you, I don't know) for just that little extra maneuvering room?

The fact of the matter is, pleated trousers enlarge the dimensions of the frontal hip/crotch area, thus distorting the streamline of your entire outfit and making you look wider and chunkier (which is a definite thing to avoid if you're under 6 feet.).

The sort of trouser every man should be wearing is the 'flat front'.

Flat fronts lengthen the overall appearance of a man's lower body and streamline the relative proportions of the hip to thigh section - in other words - flat fronts will make you look better. Wear them.

4. Last thing on, first thing noticed/Keepin' it real

The younger brother of the saying "women notice details", "last thing on, first thing noticed" is a qualification to the latter saying that suggests that it's often the last thing that you put on that gets noticed first. I'm not implying that you should thus pay less attention to the first thing you put on, but rather, all I'm trying to get across is... Confucius say, "it is wise to pay attention to small details."

Small details being your cufflinks, your belt, your watch, your pocket square (I hear a lot of you going "pocket what?"). They are your weapons of mass individuality-display. You don't have to stand out by wearing an outrageous shirt with rainbow-coloured peacock feathers sticking out the back. Subtleness is a beautiful thing. Pair a crisp clean dress shirt with patent leather shoes and some nice white gold cufflinks and discerning people will compliment you for your taste. And I promise you, it will seem to everybody that you weren't even trying.

"What do you mean my vest doesn't match my bandana?"

5. Don't worry son, you'll grow into it.

No son, you probably will not grow into it. And you'll look silly trying to.
I have to admit, my dad used this line on me several times throughout the course of my childhood. And yes, I thought it made sense at the time, to buy a pair of jeans two sizes to large for noble purposes of sustainability. But as I grew older and got a mind of my own, I realized that all the while, I was being conned.

Buy clothes that fit you, not the you that you predict will be/wish were you. Your clothes will love you for who you are, not who you warpedly think you might become. Shirt sizing is relatively simple:

Size : Chest size (inches)

• XXS : 29 - 31
• XS : 30 - 32
• S : 34 - 36
• M : 38 - 40
• L : 42 - 44
• XL : 46 - 48
• XXL : 48 - 50
• XXXL : 50 - 52

Chest measurements are obtained by measuring under your arms around the fullest part of the chest. Be sure to keep the measuring tape level across your back and comfortably loose.

When buying trousers, watch out for the inseam measurements - usually 30 inches (short), 32 inches (regular) and 34 inches (long). The average man will usually fit into a 32-inch inseam, a taller man a 34-inch inseam and so on. When trying on trousers, the trousers should sit comfortably on your hips, and if you can very comfortably insert your index and middle fingers perpendicular into the area between your waist and the trouser's waistband, it's likely a perfect fit waist-wise.

"Dad, are you sure this isn't a little too big?"