Keys on Suits: Part Two

This is the second part of guest writer Keys miniseries on Suits. Hope it suits you!

 

Part II – The Style is in the Detail

Right. Here we are. Style. And what's style all about? DETAILS. 

So get comfortable and pay attention, because this will change your….well, if not your life than at least (hopefully) your wardrobe.

Let’s start things off with a little lesson in suit classification. There are generally three types of suits, each classed according to country. 

The American presents a young, chic and classy look.

The British portrays a proud and confident look. 

The Italian betrays the modern, individual fashionista. 

I’m personally a fan of the classic American, as its timelessness fits (almost) every occasion (otherwise known as the safe choice).

[The Mad Men. Otherwise known as the madly well dressed men.]

______________________________________________________________________________

Let’s kick off from the very top: LAPELS. . Lapels are divided into peak or notch lapels. There is also a less common third type: the shawl lapel.

Notch lapels are generally considered less formal and are classic and all-purpose, be it an evening dinner or a meeting with a client. Peak lapels are always reserved for social and formal events: proms, evening galas etc. and have no place in the business world. Shawl lapels are in the olden days used in informal suits ala dinner jackets but have since found a place in the formal society. However, they still remain an acquired taste and are not easy to pull off. If in doubt, always go notch.

Then there’s the question of single-breasted or double-breasted. Single breasted suits have one row of buttons. Double Breasts have two rows. For me, unlike how I pick my women, single breasted varieties are always the way to go - Double Breasts can be slightly old fashioned and tend to make the wearer look stockier. Though, Double Breasts add bulk to the figure (ha ha), which could be a positive thing if you're on the skinny side.

 

But how many buttons? A Brit suit fits itself with 3 buttons. I think this is slightly more traditional but it does have the advantage of accentuating height. American suits have 2 buttons and are currently the most common style among the young and modern. Unless you have beautiful cheekbones and great facial hair come i latinos, avoid the Italian one-button suit at all cost. It’ll look cheesy - like you’re trying too hard.

    

If allowed the option, always get your suit slightly tapered, unless of course, you’re one of the following:

• Rake thin - get tapered (and not just slightly!); 
• Arnie Built/ Buff/ Well endowed - no tapering…EVER!!!

Moving on to the back of the jacket, A British suit is usually found with double vents (or side vents) while an American has one (centre vent). Again, both have their purposes and remain a matter of preference. I find a British double vent more elegant and better in terms of mobility and flexibility. Italian suits are not outfitted with vents at all and are, again, an acquired taste. 

 

One detail that not everyone pays attention to are the pockets. There are breast pockets and lateral pockets (two pockets by your side). The laterals come in two styles: flap or besom. Breast pockets are ALWAYS besom. Flaps are the most common but are less formal. Besom are usually very formal, like for tuxedos. There are even options for flap/besom interchangeable pockets! (though I REALLY wouldn’t go there…)

Oh, and avoid the patch pocket like the devil. Again, we’re talking suits here, not dinner jackets.

                
 

Moving a little to the south, we (finally!) get to the trousers (or pants!).  First thing to consider is flat front, or pleats.  Flat fronts, a modern fashion, provide a slimming effect and are good for thin folks. Single-pleats provide more room and movement freedom. Double-pleats are…let’s just say they’ve gone with the times. And let’s not even talk about triple or quadruple pleats. (yes they do exist…sadly.)

 Single Pleat(left) vs Flat Front(right)

Second thing to decide is whether you want your pants cuffed. Cuffed are more formal but makes the leg looks shorter and vice-versa for the uncuffed.  There is one rule here: Flat fronts= no cuffs

    Cuffed(L) vs Non-cuffed (R)

Now that you’re (I hope!) educated in the different styles, in the next episode, we’ll find out how a suit should SIT on you -so that you know what to look for when you go to the malls, instead of having to be completely dependent on your tailor! Stay tuned!

Read more »